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[31 March-02 April 2021] 

On the 31 of March, after our rest day, we started the approach from #Chukhung (4750m) towards #IslandPeak BC at about 5100m. An extra bag of climbing equipment had been delivered days earlier so now we had a tent, gas and food for our attempt of this 6000+ meter peak.

The beautiful three-hour walk went alongside the impressive #Nuptse and #Lhotse faces and into a long, deserted valley. Stunning 6- and 7000m peaks rose above us with #Island_Peak at the center. We had chosen this mountain for acclimatisation so we could get used to the 6000m altitude, which in turn, would eliminate an extra lap through the #Khumbu Icefall on #Everest.

We found a windless spot for our tent and after a good night we continued up to 5400m to set a high camp. 

The strong wind continued, but despite it we did an excellent, extra 400 vertical meters to 5800 that afternoon, and as there was no water, we had to hack some ice at the Crampon Point. We were hoping to go for the summit the next day.

However, the weather was not on our side and the strong wind continued. The tent was shaking all over the place and a quick check on the satphone told us that the winds would be gusting 80-100kms an hour. On Sunday, though, the wind would drop a lot, and because we didn’t have enough food and gas to wait that long, we left all our gear at 5400m and walked back to Chukhung…

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