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We turned around. After five rotations through the Icefall and being sick for almost 10 days, my body was tired and empty, and I lost many kilos in the process. People asked me if it was difficult to turn around, but honestly it was not. It was sad and emotional, but the decision felt good. After climbing and guiding for more than 10 years, I know how I should feel like to even try a mountain like this. And I didn’t feel like that at all…which meant too much risk if we would have pushed on. So we packed our camps and all our gear, almost 35kgs of it, and descended back to BC… that was it.

We used no oxygen and we carried all are own gear up and down the mountain. We even carried our poo back to BC when there were no toilets and cleaned up the track of rubbish between BC and C2. And by doing it this way it made me proud; we stuck to our own beliefs, although it was sometimes difficult and hard. Many people didn’t seem to understand us on the mountain or why we wanted to do it our way, but that was not important. We knew what our climbing ethics and style were, stood by it and I feel we can now leave this mountain with our heads held up high.

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